Since then, however, the food has been on a downhill slide and has largely become homogenized. Close your eyes and it would be difficult to tell one restaurant from another.

Now, I'm on a quest to find those rare places that rise above the rest. Friends and colleagues swear by Lers Ros on Larkin Street; so I recently paid a visit.

I was impressed by the spirit and execution of the food prepared by Tom Silargorn. The various dishes were distinctive, a vast improvement over places such as Manora Thai where most dishes are washed in sweetness.

One of my favorite dishes was the braised pork belly. This is an ingredient I've come to avoid at most Western places because it's poorly prepared. Here, it was crispy as the menu stated, kind of like chicharrones sandwiched between wonderfully rendered meat, in a sauce fragrant with chiles and basil.

Few places highlight young peppercorns still on the stem, which I found in a dish with slices of beef and galangal. It was so fiery, in fact, it raised welts on my tongue. I loved it; kind of the only version of S&M that appeals. Fortunately, it was cooled by another dish of flat noodles with a "secret gravy" and marinated pork.

This is a place where the chef obviously cooks what he likes: frog legs with basil leaves; smelt in a broth seasoned with chile paste and young peppercorns; green papaya salad with salted egg; and chicken entrails with basil. Most dishes are in the $7-8 range, and portions are so large there's enough left over for lunch the next day.

So where to next? I'd appreciate suggestions. I'm determined to track down a few fresh Thai restaurants for the next Top 100 guide.