Since then, however, the food has been on a downhill slide and has largely become homogenized. Close your eyes and it would be difficult to tell one restaurant from another.
Now, I'm on a quest to find those rare places that rise above the rest. Friends and colleagues swear by Lers Ros on Larkin Street; so I recently paid a visit.
I was impressed by the spirit and execution of the food prepared by Tom Silargorn. The various dishes were distinctive, a vast improvement over places such as Manora Thai where most dishes are washed in sweetness.
One of my favorite dishes was the braised pork belly. This is an ingredient I've come to avoid at most Western places because it's poorly prepared. Here, it was crispy as the menu stated, kind of like chicharrones sandwiched between wonderfully rendered meat, in a sauce fragrant with chiles and basil.